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Yam is the answer

Your friends from the city are in town and are sick of that damn Grassi Lakes Trail.
Paul MacMillan, left, watches as Kaleigh Fendley traverses the crux on the way to the peak of Yamnuska.
Paul MacMillan, left, watches as Kaleigh Fendley traverses the crux on the way to the peak of Yamnuska.

Your friends from the city are in town and are sick of that damn Grassi Lakes Trail.

You’ve bragged enough about your mountain adventures that they believe you’re a modern day Hans Gmoser ready to take them up a dramatic summit they can brag about to their desk-ridden co-workers back in Cowtown.

Where do you go?

At seven kilometres with 900 metres of elevation gain and enough variety to keep the attention-deficit-disorder stricken satisfied, Yamnuska is the sensible answer.

First, a little history. The mountain is officially called Mount John Laurie, named after the founder of the Indian Association of Alberta. However, Yamnuska, meaning flat rock, is more commonly used. If you want to seem like a true smarty pants, tell them it offers a clear view of evidence of the McConnell thrust fault that forced 600-million-year-old limestone over 100-million-year-old mesozoic rocks. If they have any further questions about geology, change the subject quickly.

Yamnuska tends to be popular with the city crowd due to its unique shape, accessibility and relative ease compared to other day summits. Its views are more consistent than Ha Ling, there’s no gondola like on Sulphur to tempt last minute rides up and it offers great rewards for the grunt. It takes about five hours to do the entire circuit, so plan thoughtfully.

Since it is such a popular hike, it can become crowded on weekends, often with the ill-prepared, sandal-clad set, so I recommend beginning early in the morning to avoid the crush of daytrippers. Also ensure you have good hiking boots, plenty of water and bear spray. It’s wild out there.

Yamnuska’s split personality becomes evident early on. After crossing a small bridge and making the first short climb (oddly one of the steepest of the day) a sign splits the mountain users: climbers get the VIP treatment and are sent to the front, lowly hikers to the rear. It’s possible to hike the mountain beginning on the climbers’ side, however, it’s not nearly as enjoyable. Climbers have more than 100 routes to chose from on the front face of the mountain, however, I lack the ripped arms and steel nerves to attempt such a feat.

The first three kilometres gradually climb through mixed forest and lush vegetation. It’s the only trail in the Bow Valley in which I’ve seen snakes, so keep an eye on the ground as well as on the ever-improving scenery. Also, take a camera and at least pretend to have an interest in wildflowers. That will give you a chance to catch your breath and hide the fact you’re sucking wind after 20 minutes on the trail.

There are several secondary and animal trails, and a big helpful rock arrow on the ground at the top of the bench to show you the way, but the main trail is definitely well-worn. Keep following the path towards the mountain, make lots of noise on the trail to warn the wildlife and take in the sweeping views where foothills meet mountains.

Once above treeline, the scrambling begins. Hikers can work their way through the keyhole, with its well-worn holds. It can be slippery, so be careful. Once through, a spectacular valley is revealed below and the rest of the scree slopes take you to the top. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Calgary and beyond as well as well into Kananaskis Country.

Hikers looking for a quick glimpse of their valley home quickly make their way up to the first peak.

My first few attempts on this trail ended at this point, due to poor weather or a bad case of lazy bones. It’s a decent turnaround spot for those who want a good view, but don’t have the five hours required to finish the hike.

Continue to follow the trail along the scree slope, slowly gaining elevation and improving views. Be mindful of the plentiful handholds and move safely across the back of the slope. After another short climb, hikers come to a 30-metre cable on the side of the mountain used to steady their progress along a short ledge. This is the crux of the scramble and many turn around at this point, as there is a sense of exposure. However, most tackle it with ease. It looks much worse than it actually is and the footings are solid. Be brave and know the summit is only 300 metres away.

After a short descent and another climb, you arrive at the summit in all of its glory. Breath it in and watch for the habituated chipmunks at the peak. It’s a beautiful lunch spot, with excellent views of the surrounding foothills and peaks into K-Country. Hikers can return the way they came or continue their way around the mountain, which I recommend.

This way down includes a jaunt down a pebbled talus slope. While the Outlook recommends hiking with caution, there’s really nothing we can do to stop you from taking a heart-pounding run down the pebbly slope. So be smart.

With that out of the way, take a breather and work your way around the western side of the mountain. The footing is sketchy at this point, so take your time (I mean it this time). Once you reach the front face of the mountain, follow the climbers’ trail out and marvel at the modern day Spidermen and women scaling the face. If you’re feeling particularly brave, taunt the sport climbers for their lack of trad climbing acumen.

The trail diverges again and you have the choice of following the face of the mountain or descending another talus slope to catch a lower trail.

By now, your city friends should either be thanking you for taking them on such a gorgeous hike or cursing you for causing such leg pains.


Rocky Mountain Outlook

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