While Banff is well known for the eclectic dining mix its many restaurants offer, 30 years ago the tastebuds of locals and visitors alike needed a little coaxing before accepting a new cuisine.
That cuisine was a Greek offering at the then-new Balkan Restaurant, opened in 1984 by John and Antonia Koukouras. From a humble beginning, the restaurant was purchased by Jason Karlos and Tommy Soukas in 1986 and moved to its present location on Banff Avenue.
Today, the Balkan is owned by Stavros and Yannis Karlos – the third generation of local ownership – who purchased it six years ago from their parents, Joanna and Jason, who met in Banff in 1974. Three decades is certainly a major milestone and the Balkan will celebrate, Jan. 30, when it hosts the Balkan Bacchanal.
Today, the Balkan is well known for savoury house specialties like lamb (by far the best seller, said Stavros) and delicate calamari.
Back in the day, though, said Joanna, who still develops menu items at the restaurant, “we were the first to have calamari. It was hard to find calamari and lamb, but all our recipes are family recipes, just the way we were brought up, and we had to have it.”
In the early days of the restaurant, though, Alberta tastes ran to meat and potatoes, said Stavros. Thinking back, Tommy (of Tommy’s fame) said “we had to train people to like garlic and calamari. At one time we had whole calamari and the town almost had a riot. We had people calling us and telling us to change it.
“When we first opened, we had hard times for a couple of months. People were afraid to try Greek food, but then we brought in belly dancers and ouzo, which was even more exotic. At the time, souvlaki was the most popular item.”
For the Bacchanal, under Joanna’s watchful eye, roast lamb, octopus, home-made desserts and other delectable buffet menu items will be available, as will cocktails and live music by the Rembetika Hipsters.
While the Balkan is under the guidance of Stavros and Yannis these days, Joanna remains in charge of quality control and menu creation. “We work on new items all the time,” she said. “Everything changes and you have to keep up.”
Thirty years in business means a lot of memories, which all of the families involved have – including Stavros and his wife’s return to Canada with a 10-kilo bag full of Greek oregano and subsequent scrutiny by customs staff. Oregano from Greece has been a mainstay for the restaurant, and Joanna has been hauling it home for years after visits.
Business challenges over the years include the initial unfamiliarity with Greek cuisine, said Stavros. “But there is also the cyclical nature of the tourism economy and the fact you need to have the support of locals.”
Luckily, that local support includes staff. Chef Jason Bloomfield has been with the Balkan for about 30 years, after starting as an 18-year-old kid from eastern Canada, and serve and bar staff tends to be long-term as well. “Seven staff are born and raised locals,” said Stavros.
In 1986, the chef was Jason Karlos, who trained Bloomfield. “Dad was always on the line and he was mostly self-taught, like in most Greek restaurants,” said Stavros.
These days, the Balkan seats 122 and Joanna continues creating new menu items. “She can be involved when she wants and she can walk away,” said Stavros. “She gets to do all the fun stuff.”
Things have changed at the Balkan, of course. “These guys (Stavros and Yannis) are doing it right,” kidded Tommy. “These guys take a day off. His dad and I worked all the time; I think in a year he (Stavros) gets more days off than his dad did in his life.”
That being said, a main reason for the Balkan’s success, said Stavros, “is we love what we do. We have a good team and I think the place will go as long as we want it to.”
Asked whether she’s surprised the Balkan has endured for three decades, Joanna’s answer is simple. “No. I’m very proud of them (family members), they’re doing a great job and word of mouth keeps us going.
“I’m really looking forward to the 30th, I’m excited about the buffet.”
