An experienced Canmore climber took a 30 metre fall while climbing Professor Falls on Mount Rundle in Banff National Park last weekend, landing him in a Calgary hospital in critical condition.
Parks Canada rescuers were called to the scene at about 1:45 p.m. on Sunday (Feb. 21) after the alarm was raised that a 58-year-old man had fallen on the third pitch of Professor’s – considered a classic climb in the area and one that is very popular.
Rescuers say the man suffered serious injuries, including a broken back, pelvis, leg and ankle and arm laceratiions.
“He was leading and took a big fall, about 100 feet, and hit several rocks and ledges on the way down,” said Grant Statham, a visitor safety specialist for Banff, Yoho and Kootenay national parks.
“His climbing partner eventually stopped him and he came to a stop on the rope, and was hanging from the rope.”
Professor Falls is tucked into a steep, narrow, gully on Mount Rundle. The climb consists of numerous steps of fun ice climbing separated by short snow slopes. The last pitch is the steepest.
Another climbing party in the area was quick to help the injured man and two other Canmore climbers in his group.
They were able to lower the injured climber a short distance to a small ledge, about two by three metres, where they built an anchor.
“He was lying there quite seriously injured and they called for help with a cellphone,” said Statham.
Parks Canada responded with three visitor safety specialists on board an Alpine helicopter and Banff EMS waited at the nearby wastewater treatment plant.
“We zoomed right over there and were able to assess the scene and put three rescuers into the site,” said Statham. “We were able to stabilize the patient as best we could, but it was serious injuries and our goal was to evacuate him as soon as possible.
“It was quite technical there and we slung him off the ledge directly to the waiting ambulance.”
The injured man was taken to Mineral Springs Hospital and then on to Foothills Hospital in Calgary.
Statham said the climbers did a great job of looking after him while waiting for rescuers to arrive.
“They really did a great job of preparing the site very well for us to undertake the rescue,” he said. “One of the reasons is because they were experienced, but also because we had really good communication with them.”
Statham said the reason the climber fell so far is because he climbed a long way without putting in any protection.
“People should always remember they are vulnerable when they are run out on easy ground,” he said. “We all do it, and Professor’s is not a difficult climb, but you should put gear in.”
Professor Falls was named after Calgary mountaineer and ice climber Professor Eckhard Grassman, who took a fall when he made the first ascent of the route in 1974.
The climb consists of three steep WI4 pitches, a gentler fourth and fifth (WI3/3+) and a final crux WI4 pitch of ice often in excess of 85 degrees.
