Over the course of many a conversation between Canadian Rockies climbers, whenever the topic of mentorship is introduced one name invariably comes up again and again.
Urs Kallen arrived in Canada from his native Switzerland in 1965. An already keen and accomplished climber in his early 20s, during his first year when he lived in Toronto he established several new routes on local rock crags.
When he moved west to Calgary, and the Rockies, he continued to pursue his passion. And now, nearly 50 years later, Kallen can still be found practicing his craft most Monday evenings at the University of Calgary climbing gym.
A devoted husband to Gerda, with whom he founded and continues to operate Kallen Graphics, Urs spends his weekends climbing with friends and playing with his grandchildren. Maintaining a keen eye for new climbs, this fall he discovered two long alpine routes he plans to climb next summer.
Throughout the decades, however, Kallen has become widely known and admired for his willingness to share his passion with climbers of all ages, as well as for his professional skills. In 1970, together with legendary Rockies climber Brian Greenwood, Kallen published the Rockies’ first guidebook, titled Yamnuska. In 1977, he released the second guidebook to the area. Known as the Kallen 34, those climbs on Mount Yamnuska – of the now more than 100 on that face – comprise a popular tick list for aspiring climbers.
In the mid-1980s, through Kallen Graphics he partnered with another Rockies’ climbing legend, Dave Cheesmond, to produce two magazines titled Polar Circus. More recently, Kallen has teamed up with Gripped climbing magazine editor and younger generation climber Brandon Pullan to complete a book titled Bold and Cold, which Kallen began working on in the 1980s with Cheesmond and Tim Friesen.
All those things, coupled with Kallen’s renowned modesty and enthusiasm, make him a worthy recipient of the 2014 Summit of Excellence Award. Presented annually by The Banff Centre and Patagonia Banff at the closing night event of the Banff Mountain Film Festival, the Summit of Excellence recognizes an individual who has made a significant contribution to mountain life in the Canadian Rockies.
“I think Urs’ contribution to the climbing community over the years is as a role model,” said writer and climbing historian Chic Scott, himself the 2000 Summit of Excellence recipient. “Urs has continued to climb at a high standard into his 70s and is an inspiration for all young climbers. And Urs has shown us that it is possible to have a successful business career and to raise a family and to also have an outstanding career as a climber.”
Kallen’s impressive climbing resume includes first ascents of Mount Fay’s north face, and Mount Athabasca’s north face, both in 1968. The following year he made the first ascent of Mount Victoria’s north face, and also the first winter ascent of the north face of Stanley Peak. He accomplished the first ascent of Mount Patterson’s north face in 1973, as well as second ascents of some Rockies classics, including Balrog on Yamnuska, and the north face of Ha Ling overlooking Canmore. Early repeats of challenging climbs include the Beckey/Chouinard route on South Howser Tower and the east face of Bugaboo Spire in B.C.’s Bugaboos, as well as the Supercouloir on Deltaform Mountain.
He is however, best known for his new routes on Yamnuska, including CMC Wall, which he created in 1972 with Billy Davidson, and Yellow Edge, also established with Davidson in 1974 – both outstanding achievements at the time which could only be accomplished with aid.
In 1997, Kallen teamed up with fellow veteran Jeff Marshall to make a 25th anniversary ascent of CMC Wall, this time without aid.
But you’d never hear it from Kallen.
“It is Urs’ modesty that makes him such a terrific Summit of Excellence Award winner,” Scott said. “Urs has never tooted his own horn but has quietly amassed a terrific curriculum vitae of great climbs.”
Kallen was presented the Summit of Excellence award on the closing night of the Banff Mountain Film Festival, Sunday (Nov. 9).
