Amidst the glut of winter activities in the Canadian Rockies, a brave cadre of wild-eyed snowsport enthusiasts choose to spend their spare time scaling towers of ice and rock across the frozen landscape.
And for good reason – most of the best ice climbing in the world is within driving distance of Canmore and Banff.
Here are a few of suggestions from a few local experts. For those new to the sport, it’s best to hire one of many local ACMG guide (www.acmg.ca) to show the ropes and share their own favourite routes. Always check weather conditions, and be sure to check out avalanche conditions (avalanche.ca) before venturing into the backcountry.
CLIMBER - LARRY STANIER
Experience: ACMG Mountain Guide. Climbing in region since early ‘80s.
Beginner recommendation:
The Balfour Wall:
Grade: W.I. 2.
Location: Highway 93N, five minutes north of Waterfowl Campground.
“It’s easy to get to and it’s a beautiful place to hang out. It has lots of easy climbing, and some more difficult climbs.”
Intermediate recommendation:
Professor Falls:
Location: Tucked into a narrow, steep gully on Mount Rundle.
Grade: WI 4, 280m.
“It’s a multi-pitch route with relatively low avalanche danger and a good intro. I’ve probably climbed it 35 times, and you can get there using the end of the road by the Banff Springs. I climbed it in June once, paddling from Canmore to Banff and back. Paddling is a classic approach.”
Advanced pick:
Mixed Master:
Grade: W.I. 5.8. 300m.
Location: Highway 93N, beside Weeping Wall.
“It’s a long multi-pitch route – one of the classic mix climbs in the Canadian Rockies.”
CLIMBER - SARAH HUENIKEN
ACMG Mountain Guide. First North American woman to climb M11 and M12 routes. Scaled Niagara Falls with partner Will Gadd last year.
The Sorcerer:
Grade: W.I. 5, 210m.
Location: North Ghost region, across Ghost river. Finding it does require quite the approach, so do some research before venturing forth.
“It’s a super beautiful setting and an adventure just to get to it. It has unique features to climb – a four-pitch grade 5.”
Bourgeau Left:
Grade: W.I. 5, 150m.
Location: Drive to the end of Sunshine Village road. Hike up the valley to a small trail to the right, gaining elevation.
“That is a classic. It’s steep and you can see it from the Sunshine gondola.”
Professor Falls:
Location: Tucked into narrow, steep gully on Mount Rundle.
Grade: W.I. 4, 280m.
“You’ve gotta bike down the golf course road. The bike ride in can be fun. The climb itself is awesome. It’s got some nice comfy ledges – it’s an ice climber’s dream.”
