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Fricker masters bouldering nationals

Alex Fricker’s climbing career scaled new heights as the 16 year old was crowned champion at the youth bouldering national championships in Etobicoke, Ont. The national title was his first. “It feels great.
Alex Fricker claims his first national title.
Alex Fricker claims his first national title.

Alex Fricker’s climbing career scaled new heights as the 16 year old was crowned champion at the youth bouldering national championships in Etobicoke, Ont.

The national title was his first.

“It feels great. Last year I was disappointed with how I climbed in the final. This year it was good to come in and show everyone I mean business,” Fricker said.

Fricker’s performance in the final could not have gone better, as he flashed three of four problems to secure the win. Fricker kept his mental game on point, and it paid off with a great win. Faced with a series of highly technical problems, Fricker surprised himself with how quickly he solved them.

“It went perfectly. I didn’t get ahead of myself thinking about the outcome,” he said. “I managed to keep it under control and pull it through. The problems suited my style quite a bit. I didn’t realize it at the time. They were very technical problems and I learned I am good at those types.”

The win should open up more sponsorship opportunities for the well-spoken Canmore teen, as the win also translated into an invitation to Open Bouldering Nationals in Vancouver. Competing against the best male climbers in Canada, Fricker finished 11th in Vancouver, while Banff’s world cup pro Eric Sethna took the overall win.

“That was my first open nationals. I had no idea what to expect from the problems. I knew it would be hard and everyone would be very strong. But since I had no expectations, right off the bat there was less pressure, which was nice because I don’t perform well under pressure,” Fricker said.

He surprised himself by reaching the semifinals and moving up one spot in a tough field.

“I definitely did not expect that. I made a couple of open finals before, and that gave me an idea I could do well. When I made the semis, I accomplished my goal,” Fricker said. “In the semis, the only problem I managed to top was on the fourth. Being able to know I can keep my head where it needs to be was key – not getting down, being able to focus.”

Fricker is having fun competing, but he’s already looking forward to using his improved strength and skill outside, as he is itching to get on rock. First, he has a lead and rope-climbing season to complete, including a competition at Elevation Place in May.

“I am the strongest I have been so far. I hope that translates from competition to real rock,” Fricker said.

Becca Frangos climbed through injury to finish 13th at Open Bouldering Nationals. She was disappointed with the result, but proud of herself for powering through.

“I definitely wasn’t able to climb nearly my best in the semis, but I am proud of myself for giving it all on every single boulder,” Frangos wrote.


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