Todd Joyal wants climbers to kick the plastic habit.
The Canmore stone mason/ski patroller/president of Select Agents Inc. recently launched the first “real” rock climbing hold manufacturing company of its kind to create natural rock holds for indoor gyms.
“We make real rock climbing holds from all different types of rock. From granite, quartz, limestone, soapstone – basically any type of hard rock, we can make a hold with it,” Joyal said.
Just like plastic holds, Joyal’s work has flush backs and countersunk bolt holes suitable for climbing gyms, strengthening fingers and preparing wall crawlers for outdoor adventures. Rock holds allows climbers to easily transition from indoor gyms to outdoor adventures.
“These are holds designed by a climber, for the climber – to bring the outdoors indoors,” Joyal said.
A climber for 12 years, Joyal began making his own holds in 2005 for fun.
“I do a lot of stone work. Back in the day, we couldn’t afford to buy plastic holds, so we just created these rock holds with some gear I had laying around. It grew from there,” Joyal said.
“The goal is to create a company that will re-define the indoor climbing scene; to make real rock as affordable as plastic, eliminating the use of plastic, creating a greener climbing world. We’re saving the world, one rock at a time.”
Joyal’s first partner in the endeavour is the Canmore Bouldering Cave climbing gym, which currently has about 40 rock holds on bouldering routes. Climbing gyms in Newfoundland, Saskatchewan and the United States have also purchased the products. Currently, Joyal cuts the rock in Manitoba, but is looking for light industrial space in the Bow Valley.
“Real rock provides a different variety as well. You climb enough on plastic, you can see how you’re supposed to hold the hold. With rocks, there are unusual angles and features. You have to try three or four times to find a way that works,” said Canmore Bouldering Cave’s John Effa.
“It’s nice to have them actually properly designed. Lots of guys on their home walls make screw-ons, but for routes it’s easy to work with.”
The company, Select Agents Inc., began manufacturing the holds in September, and the early response has been very positive. The Cave has also served as a testing ground for the rock holds, and many local climbers have been impressed with the product.
“People really like them. It’s now a unique aspect we have at our gym for those interested in pulling on real rock. The young crushers are really excited about them,” Effa said. “The holds just stand out. People go over and look at them; they study the texture. You don’t see that with plastic.”
“For me, it gives that extra boom in the fingers. The transition from outside to inside is great. You get to climb on real rock indoors, but you don’t get the views,” Joyal said.
Much of the rock comes from Canadian shield in Manitoba, but Joyal has quarry contacts across North America. Looking ahead, he’d like to use rocks from quarries near famous climbing areas such as Red Rock, Squamish, Las Vegas and Yosemite.
“The goal would be to make custom holds for that person who wants to go out west or down south. They could train on those holds before they got there,” Joval said.
“So if you are planning a trip and you’re headed to Squamish, you could be training on these real rock holds months before actually being there, preparing your fingers to the texture and uniqueness of all areas.”
